Thursday, June 26, 2008

Radikon Merlot

Radikon Merlot

Radikon Merlot comes in one jazzy bottle in a litre size with a shocking label. Radikon Merlot is one of the top Merlot bottlings of Friuli and as Merlot Month enters its final leg we are investigating the Merlots of my 'hood, north eastern Italy and specifically Friuli. This is where the great and the good oeneologists have deemed the area of Italy most similar to Pomerol, France and that terrific Merlot should be naturally at home here. They're certainly trying. Friuli Merlot is pouring out of the wine makers veins and vines around these parts and todays offering, the Radikon Merlot, has a real cult following. Will all the pzazz be equal to the quality of the wine? Erm, no.


Perhaps following Redigaffi on the palate was a tall order for the Radikon, or perhaps the 35°c week long heat blaze has made me angry with my locale, but I'm pretty sure this just isn't all that great. It's 87 points good, which is jolly tasty indeed, but for €100 - I've been robbed.
So what of wine maker Radikon?
Stanislao Radikon is a pioneer in wine making, perhaps on this occasion he hasn't produced the best Merlot I've had, but the producer is notable for other reasons.
Radikon is a naturalist wine maker who has managed to make his wines resistant to oxidation, even though he uses no sulfur dioxide to stabilize the wine. There are no stainless steel fermentation vats or a whiff of new oak around his vineyards, instead old wine making techniques are employed. It makes sense then, that with the naturalist approach and a terroir most suited to Merlot that this wine has won high praise, indeed it was recommended to me by Antonio Galloni himself. As an 80's kid raised in the UK, I am not best placed to appreciate the particularities of natural wine production, so please, try the Radikon Merlot for yourself! What I do love about the wine is that it is a fine expression of the stoney, minerally ground upon which it sprung but it just didn't taste all that great, and that's kinda important.
Radikon Merlot 2000 - PASS - €100
Mid ruby red with an expressive mineral nose, the stones of the terroir are present and some good fruit on the nose including plums and cherries. On the palate the wine is mid bodied and a little acidic, good tannic structure and a nice length to the finish but where is the fruit? 87 Points
I know I can be a bit of a Ribena Berry, but I'm down with vegetal, down with animal and down with mineral and I'm not sure where, on the palate, this wine belongs. A little help?
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Corte di Bacco - €100
Americans - Wine Library - $109
Brits - Corte di Bacco - €100
LEAVE A COMMENT!
If you've tried this wine, please tell me what you think to it? I am confused. Or comment about anything, comments have gone off the boil and tears are welling in my eyes.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Tua Rita Redigaffi

Tua Rita Redigaffi

Tua Rita Redigaffi is the mega Merlot from top Bolgheri estate, Tua Rita. Redigaffi - the cult wine with the Valentino price tag is a critic pleasing Merlot of the highest order. If ratings are to be trusted the Tua Rita Redigaffi should claim top spot in Merlot Month (which is zipping by now, half way thru 5 of 10). I've already written about Tua Rita this month so if you want to learn more about this fabulous coco-chic estate then click here.

Read it? Good, so let's carry on. The Redigaffi is the only wine in Italy to have achieved a perfect 100 Parker point score. Consider there are 1000's of Italian winemakers, consider all the D.O.C and D.O.C.G wines out there that never managed to score 100 Parker points. This is a Vino da Tavola wine. A wine that Italy isn't really supposed to do well at and yet forget Giacosa, forget Gaja, forget Soldera only Tua Rita can claim this prestigious title. With the title comes the price tag, to buy a bottle of this 100 point wine you are handing over minimum $600, and more likely $800. That might even be considered a bargain compared to the 100 point French Pomerol counterparts.

I want to make a quick mention of scores, most of the emails I've had since starting the blog have been about the ratings of wines. For example, I went to town on a Barbera recently and exclaimed I wouldn't use it in a cooking sauce and still gave it 73 points. How can this be? The lowest a wine can score is 50 points. 50 points is for being a liquid in a bottle basically, and then a rough guide from there would go like this.

50 - 70 - Wines that range from truly and utterly vile to just kinda gross.

71 - 79 - Wines that range from quite bad to almost drinkable. Anything 79 or under could find its way down my kitchen sink.

80 - 84 - There are aspects of this wine I like, but the wine has flaws that probably would stop me buying it again.

85 - 89 - These could be wines I'd recommend, but the price would be important. For instance, if a wine cost €3 and I gave it a 86, this would be a steal. If a wine cost €30 and I gave it 87, I'd probably write a PASS next to it.

90 - 93 - Excellent wines, wines I would drink and re buy, there is some exceptional element to the wine.

94 - 97 - World class wines, wines for very special occasions where the grape has almost reached its perfect expression.

98 - 100 - Perfect wines, the best wines money can buy.

When thinking about points you must always think about price. I can rate a wine 91 and PASS it (like the Voerzio wine of two days ago) if it costs €169 a bottle. Some people award 5 points for colour, 20 points for nose etc, and have a very scientific way of calculating it, but there is an OMPF factor in wines, a personal factor that can't be quantified so this is just MY scale for my personal taste. So quit yer yapping at me.

Tua Rita Redigaffi Merlot 2001 - BUY - €210
Dark, heavy, deep and dense purple in the glass. Rich and heavy nose of chocolate and berries, spicy, lingering and licorice. The mouth feel is all encompassing, you have a wine hit here, thick and full bodied, dense and coating and yet very complex and intriguing. On the palate a rich variety of dark fruit, very concentrated with the longest finish on any Italian Merlot I've tried and even sweet and fruity to the last. Mega Merlot, Mega Impressed. 98 Points

Ooooooooh, the highest scoring wine so far on Wine90, am I scared to go 98! Not at all, 98 to my palate, I love it, I want to bathe in it, bake with it and take it home to meet my parents.

THE GAUNTLET HAS BEEN THRUST TO THE FLOOR. Can the other 5 Merlots come close, can you wait? You can huh.

Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Eno Sardegna - €210
Americans - The Spirit Shoppe - $349
Brits - Fine and Rare - £238

LEAVE A COMMENT!
Never was there a better time to comment, this is the highest rated wine so far. Have you tried it? What's your highest rated wine of all time? Is Andy Murray arrogant?

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Le Macchiole Messorio

Le Macchiole Messorio


Le Macchiole Messorio - the top bottling from Le Macchiole, the Messorio is a 100% Merlot wine that is the 4th of 10 Italian Merlots I am trying out for Merlot month. We're into the top guns now, yesterday we crowned Falesco's Montiano as the best Italian Merlot outside of the traditional growing areas of Tuscany and Friuli and today we are looking at one of Tuscany's finest. Along with the Redigaffi, the Messorio can claim to be the top Tuscan Merlot of each vintage, although grown in the same region from the same grape these wines have their differences and we shall be seeing which, from the 2001 vintage, was the best.

So, a little bit about Le Macchiole. A relative newcomer to wine making, Le Macchiole began making wines in 1972 and have Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc under vine at their vineyards in the Super Tuscan region; Bolgheri. The wines of Le Macchiole have always been popular with critics and the sheer class of their wines can be derived from their studious attention to detail. Their philosophy, "one bottle per vine" illustrates what exceptionally low yield Le Macchiole enforce. The Merlot is not the only award winner at this vineyard but the Paleo (Bordeaux-esque blend) and Scrio (100% Syrah) are also international successes.


So, to the Messorio itself. 18 months in new oak, from very small yields this is as fine a Merlot as you can expect. So, did expectations and reality match up? Let's see!
Le Macchiole Messorio 2001 - BUY - €169
Dark ruby red in the glass, good intensity. Delicious aromas of cherries, coffee, plums and smoke. Round and chewy tannins, very fruity with a smooth, gorgeous mouth-feel. Sumptuous wine, good structure and pleasant flavours. This wine needs a long time in the decanter. 95 Points
Where can i buy this wine?
Europeans - MTVWines - €169
Americans - Corporate Wines - $179 (Bargain)
Brits - Fine and Rare - £209 (Not a Bargain)
Make a Comment
Like this wine, hate this wine, never heard of this wine? Watching Wimbledon? It's good to talk.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Roberto Voerzio Merlot

Roberto Voerzio Merlot

Roberto Voerzio Merlot, or, Roberto Voerzio Langhe Merlot Fontanazza to give the wine its full name, is the 3rd wine of 10 Italian merlots I am sampling for Merlot Month. Already blown away with the Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo and the Falesco Montiano, I was really looking for something to fall on its face but how could it be Roberto Voerzio? For his wines are my love and passion, my Romeo and Juliet, my Sharky and George.

Why the photo? That is public enemy number 1 here in Italy today, the Spaniard that put Italy out of Euro 2008, Cesc Fabregas. He also plays for Arsenal, so "shoot on sight" *

Recommended to me directly by Mr Antonio Galloni, the Italian wine critic for Robert Parker's "Wine Advocate", it took little persuasion for me to add the Roberto Voerzio Merlot to the "merlots from outta town" list. Italian Merlot traditionally comes from the Friuli and Tuscan regions of Italy but I was keen to make this an Italian affair and bring in the best from other regions, and the best is what we got. However, and this will be my second direct bashing for my beloved Voerzio, this merlot, in my humblest of humble opinions, was not quite up to the two previous merlots.

Roberto Voerzio Merlot is still a 91 point wine, but as the most expensive of the 3 at over €129 a bottle, I've got to be honest and PASS the wine. It's a beautiful effort, from a very limited production, but my criteria for BUY or PASS is based on just one factor, would Sarah Newton buy this wine again? Negative. I'd buy 5 bottles of Falesco instead and a Mars Bar. If you are rolling that kind of dosh and enjoy Voerzio wines, be my guest, it's all a matter of means at the end of the day, Jack. So onto the review.

Roberto Voerzio Langhe Merlot Fontanazza 2004 - PASS - €129
Dark ruby red in the glass, good colour. On the nose, regal and opulent and very generous with all the dark fruits you'd be expecting from your Merlot as well as some nice tobacco, fungus and tar. The palate continues down regal road and the wine is very fruity with lots of berries and some herb notes too. A fine finish, full bodied and smooth but €129? 91 Points

Would I drink this if they were handing it out at London Bridge? For sure, I'm not down on the Fontanazza it's very interesting with some herb/mushroom notes that give you a sense of the terroir. For those that like to pick wine apart it's a cool little puzzle. So let's continue to show the RV love because the guy tries and brings something original to all his wines *points at you all*, don't forget it.

So, to round up the Merlots outside of the Tuscany/Friuli region and give them their places on the podium *drum roll*

1st - Falesco Montiano 2001 - 92 Points
2nd - Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2004 - 93 Points
3rd - Roberto Voerzio Langhe Merlot Fontanazza 2004 - 91 Points

So, a close run thing, but for value there is no beating the Montiano, yes the Feudi di San Gregorio is the better wine, just, but at over twice the price, I crown Falesco's Montiano the best "Merlot from outta town". Remember folks, there are no losers here, except Roberto, he lost. Love you.

Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - VinoLanghe - €129
Americans - Sherry Lehmann - $210
Brits - VinoLanghe - €129

Leave a comment!
Anything to say? Anything at all? Favourite Italian Merlots, am I unfair to PASS this Merlot? Do you see the glass as half full or half empty? Am I the only one to have never met a Scorpio I liked? How come Pluto and Goofy are both Disney dogs but Goofy gets to wear clothes and Pluto don't? Pipe up people, pipe up!

* Legal Disclaimer - Please do not shoot Cesc Fabregas on sight.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Italian wine and cheese

Italian wine and cheese

Italian wine and cheese combinations are fairly stock and I can reel off Italian wines and pair them with different cheese all day long. I'm not gonna go that route though. I'll be kind enough to list the traditional pairings but really, taste is, um, a matter of taste! As a child and right up until today I grate cheese all over my meals. My mother despaired as she laid down lovingly prepared meal after meal and I'd bring out the cheddar (and the vinegar) and top off my roast lamb with cheese. Just yesterday I invited an old friend over for Riesling and Cheese and she laughed at me. Who's joking? A sweet Riesling and a french Langres is a dream match! That's right folks, I am a heart attack waiting to happen.

So what of the Italian wines? Let's be methodical and go all alphabetical! Red wine and white wine can go with cheese, don't forget that, as some white wine and cheese matches are heaven.

Amarone and cheese
Traditionally pairs up with hard cheese like Parmesan or Grana Padano. However, I like Amarone with a Gouda pairing. Spicy sausage, saucy stews and chocolate puddings are also nice matches.

Barbaresco and cheese
Traditionally pairs up with Taleggio cheese. This is a washed rind Italian cheese with a particularly strong smell. Not so easy to find so why not go with Barbaresco and Pied-de-Vent or Mi-carême? Not as full on as Barolo, you can pair Barberesco with some softer cheeses.

Barbera and cheese
High acidity Barbera can pair with fatty cheese like Brie rather well. How about a Braida Barbera and Pouligny-Saint-Pierre? Gorgonzola is my personal favourite match for Barbera though you can also go with the harder cheese. Barbera is a great wine for cheese.

Barolo and cheese
"Full bodied serious wines like Barolo don't really need to be dominated by outrageously stinky cheese". So don't ruin your minimum €40 Barolo outlay with a bad cheese. They say a Pecorino compliments a Barolo but I'm going to go against the advice and say a strong cheese and a Barolo can be good stuff. I'm a cheddar lord and some seriously strong or old cheddar and Barolo is a dream combo for me, but then I put Ketchup on everything so decide for yourself.

Brunello di Montalcino and cheese
Piquant Cheeses are the way to go here apparently. I have to agree, last weekend I was drinking a beautiful Altesino Brunello and matched it up with Pave de Moyaux . Young Brunello can be tannic city so don't go the Parmagiano route.

Cannonau and cheese
Cannonau is a puzzler, it's fruity and it can be big, but it's also acidic and I struggle pairing it up, probably because I don't enjoy Cannonau particularly. The textbook says sheep cheese.

Chianti and cheese
The two Italian P Cheeses - Pecorino and Parmigiano Reggiano. I like full fat cheese with Chianti though especially Taleggio.

Dolcetto and cheese
Provolone. In a word!

Falanghina and cheese
Robiolina cheese and a Feudi Falanghina and you are kicking back on the picnic blanket and enjoying summer. However, what about those pepper added soft cheeses and a Falaghina?

Franciacorta and cheese
Peppery Cheese, Piccante Cheese or smoked cheese do wonders for these wines. Franciacorta wines are perfectly suited to creamy, semi soft cheese. You could even go herby Philadelphia if you are slumming it.

Greco di Tufo and cheese
I'd go Camembert or Taleggio on a full bodied GdT. This can even go with the lighter harder cheeses, what about Cheshire cheese? Try it.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and cheese
Strong cheese like Pecorino are the order of the day once more. With the Zaccagnini I love to pair it up with Ricotto and especially Wensleydale. Top tip, go Zaccagnini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Wensleydale, it tastes like Christmas, really, literally, like Christmas cake!

Nero d'Avola and cheese
Strong wines can be troublesome, related to Syrah traditionally we would go cheddar, red leicester and Gruyère. I'd stick to the recommendations here.

Pinot Bianco and cheese
Cream cheese, things like mozzarella are your best bets here. Sounds bland though right? Monteray Jack might kick it up a notch?

Pinot Grigio and cheese
The safe route: Urgelia. However, with a full PG I like to go the hard cheese route so bring out the GP with the PG (Grana Padano).

Primitivo and cheese
The sibling of Zinfandel will pair up nicely with all kinds of wacky foods and cheeses. Zinfandel and Primitivo are great food and cheese wines. Traditional route: Chedder, Emmental, Gouda, Pecorino, Jarlsberg.. actually the list goes on and on. If you don't know what to pair with a cheese, bring out the Primitivo and you've got a good chance of being dead on!

Prosecco and cheese
This is another great cheese wine, can go from Gorgonzola to Grana Padano with it. Good Prosecco and a mix of cheese is an EVENT! Bring this into your summer picnics.

Sagrantino and cheese
Super strong and tannic Sagrantino doesn't need a stinky friend. Go for very hard cheeses.

Soave and cheese
Another great wine for a range of cheese. I really enjoy a stilton and soave, but it is a versatile wine so can also go with the blander milkier cheeses.

Taurasi and cheese
Ripe cheese once more. Taurasi is a very strong wine so pairs off with hard cheese, another case for Parmigian. Personal favourite pairing is Beaufort.

Tocai Friulano and cheese
I don't really rate this wine with cheese. If you really are keen to find a friend for Tocai Friulano then why not go out there with something a bit interesting and smelly, definitely soft. Go gorgonzola!

Trebbiano and cheese
A Trebbiano wine and goats cheese is my secret recommendation. The experts go strong semi soft cheeses and smoked cheeses.

Valpolicella and cheese
Cimbro is a traditional recommendation. A cows milk cheese. Another local recommendation I can give you though is Monte Veronese cheese! This is a real match.com, match made in heaven, going to make it to their golden wedding pairing.

Vernaccia and cheese
Another good white for cheese. Spicy/Aromatic, semi hard and hard cheeses are all going down a storm with Vernaccia. I go Roquefort here and I love it for days!

So from stinky cheese to stinky wine, last night I was in the mood to smell something funky so opted for a regional Cabernet Franc. I got what I wished for!

Santa Margherita Lison Pramaggiore Cabernet Franc 2006 - PASS - €7
Light-mid bodied, dark ruby red, very typical Cab Franc character, some red berry fruit but very vegetal, little vanilla, plum too, no real tannins to speak of on the mouth-feel, fairly acidic and light, little red fruit on the mid-palate and a hot finish for just a 12.5% wine, not great balance but one of the better under €7 cabernet francs I've had from the Veneto. Not dazzling, but drinkable. 84 Points

Where can I buy this wine
Europeans - Di Leva - €6.50
Americans - You can't - and you shouldn't anyway
Brits - Same goes for you

Leave a comment!
Yes, I've missed some wines out of my cheese list, but that gives you a reason to leave a comment! What's missing here please and what do you feel is a good match for these wines? Am I out of my tiny mind? Tell me so then! I will dance for comments.

Friday, June 20, 2008

Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo

Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo


Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo is a 100% Merlot wine from the Campania region of Italy. Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2004 is the vintage I chose for Merlot month and I was not disappointed. This is a pricey bottle of wine but I was always confident this would be a winner. The wine was a recommendation from some esteemed Parker board members so came highly recommended but coming from such a savvy producer as Feudi di San Gregorio you can be pretty sure in the knowledge that you are going to get quality. Feudi di San Gregoria produce wines from €5-€80 and I've yet to buy a wine from them that was overpriced or a disappointment.

The Patrimo is really a labour of love for Feudi di San Gregorio and can be considered the estates top bottling usually scoring high with critics. I can't say it represents the best QPR around, I scored it 93 and at €60 we are not talking about excellent quality to price ratio BUT, its 100% Merlot, coming from Campania, it's interesting and a very cool experience so if you are happy laying down €60 on a bottle of wine and love Merlot, then it's a BUY. I would re-buy this wine.
Ironically, we don't actually carry any Feudi di San Gregorio wines and as Campania's leading estate probably it's time to get them on board. So who is this producer? If you live in Italy you will have seen their distinctive labels and bottles in every supermarket and enoteca, even if you're a stateside or a UK dweller its very possible your local wine shops are stocking Feudi di San Gregorio.
The outfit is producing some fabulous reds and, even I can admit it, some great whites. I have a real love of their Falaghina bottling and have recommended it here before. It's actually a new outfit, created in 1986 with a heavy eye on marketing but also a solid team of winemakers who have achieved excellence across the board. Other wines to look out for from Feudi di San Gregorio would include the Serpico in the red corner, possibly the best Aglianico wine in Italy and the Greco di Tufo in the white corner.
So what about the Merlot? It is insanely dark coloured and intensely aromatic, it's a real sensual wine but why spoil my tasting notes? Here we go Jack, see below.
Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2004 - BUY - €60
Crazy dark in the glass, close to black ruby red wine. The aromas of blackberries and dark fruit hit you pretty quickly, lots of smoke and mineral tones. A huge sensational wine on the palate, holds its fruit with some plum and blueberries from the start, the tannins are ingrained and not bothering me though distinctly there, the wine is hugely concentrated and needs several hours of decanting. Drinking far too young but still a stunning wine. 93 Points
Drink this wine while watching the 2012 Olympics and not before.
So that's two down and I'm impressed by the Patrimo and the Montiano and there really isn't much to pick between them. I slightly prefer this one, but could buy two bottles of the Montiano for one bottle of the Patrimo, so if you're price conscious the Montiano is the way to go. Oh well, just another 8 Merlots to go, my poor liver.
In other news, we completely sold out of Tignanello in one day yesterday, this is the 2005, forget the 2004, that can't be bought for love or money. We will be re-buying this week. I would love to know what happened, did Tig get some TV exposure yesterday? I can't believe an entire stock sold out in one day, we just bought it! Oh well.
The Wine Spectator reviews for 33 Piedmont reds came out yesterday and as a signed up member I can tell you before the scores come out and the prices shoot up that Ceretto got incredible scores for their Barberesco Asili 2005 - 95 Points! This is the highest Ceretto have ever scored from Wine Spectator. Barberesco fans and those wanting to flip their wines should invest in this wine the minute it hits the stores. BIG TIP guys, don't be ignoring me!
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Everywine - €62.61
Americans - Shoppers Vineyard - $55.99 (this is a frickin steal, way under priced)
Brits - Fine and Rare - £50
Leave a comment!
The "Questions of the Day" don't really get answered. So, instead, if you have anything to say about Feudi di San Gregorio, or Wine Spectators latest Piedmont review, or Tignanello, or the crazy prices of cod, then do it. I like the comments people, whats on your mind?

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is a huge D.O.C area in the Abruzzo region of Italy. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo wines can be, at their very best (see Valentini) epic whites capable of ageing, honeyed and nectar-esque and at their worst, like myself and pal Tina experienced last night, like Apple Tizer with some lemon Jif (no, hang on, Cif) mashed in for that extra kick.

So last night Italy were smiled upon by the footballing gods once more as red cards flew from the refs pocket and French players were sent cursing from the field. There wasn't a seat in the house at the local pub in Piazza Ferretto, well, not a seat facing a TV anyway, so we sat in a cramped corner all the while being eyed up by those guys that sell the fake Gucci bags on the tartan rugs at Piazzale Roma. Much more Apple Tizer d'Abruzzo and today we'd both have our fill of faux Fendi accessories but alas resistance came easily.
Before the game we decided on Sushi and from the choice of 6 unnamed whites, we opted for the Trebbiano. I can't tell you where it was from because the label said this, "Trebbiano". That's it folks. So really, it quite possibly wasn't even a Trebbiano d'Abruzzo but this is my SEGUE (thank you Tara from Boston) to what I really want to talk about today which is Trebbiano d'Abruzzo and more specifically the expert Valentini production.
If you only try one Trebbiano d'Abruzzo make sure absolutely that it is a Valentini. There are hundreds of Trebbiano d'Abruzzo wines out there but Eduoardo Valentini was a traditionalist and the wines have that air of someone taking their time. You know when you can just tell a wine is low yield and human industry heavy? That's what Valentini wines taste like. The sweet essence of blood, sweat and tears.
The techniques at the vineyard are fairly guarded and the wines of Valentini are not really typical of Trebbiano d'Abruzzo as a varietal but there are still unmistakable characteristics and the producer is pretty much universally agreed to be the regions best. Only 50,000 bottles come out of the estate each year, which is teeny tiny and an indication of the attention to detail. Eduoardo's son, Francesco, now handles the operation. This is a producer who shunned the critics and media and as such, I can't find a website for him to link up for you. However, I can recommend a wine with a tasting note... what a novel idea!?
Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo 2004 - BUY - €33
A cloudy golden yellow in the glass with a super packed nose of total minerality as well as the usual lush honey and flower aromas, a little bit of stone fruit too. Lovely mouth feel, caressing and super stylish, complex with good length and a real sweetness on the finish, fruity and unabashed! Brava. 90 Points
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Web di Vino - €33
Americans - Chambers St Wines - $67
Brits - Web di Vino - £25
Question of the Day?
What wine should I drink with Sushi if Martinelli's is off the menu?

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Falesco Montiano 2001

Falesco Montiano 2001


Falesco Montiano 2001 is a 100% Merlot from Falesco (Lazio). Falesco Montiano 2001 is one of Lazio's most famous wines and was a frequent suggestion as a top Merlot that I must try out for "Merlot Month". The 2001 got some great reviews from Parker et al and as such I was itching to try it. The price is really fair for a 93-94 point wine at around €25. This is the first Merlot of my 10 flight of Italian Merlot so I should really reserve judgement until the end but for a QPR wine, we have something very special.

I am a huge fan of Falesco, I love their cheapy wine, the "Tellus" and I love that they are breaking into Lazio that has no business being the hub of mass produced whites. Lazio is some premium terroir and the Montiano is proof perfect of this. This wine is capable of ageing and I suspect, as the more recent vintages are also very good, that this could be a pretty clever investment wine over the next 20-25 years.


This wine is really versatile, you can drink it alone but where it really shines is with meats such as lamb. Another reason why this wine is close to my heart is that it's grown just outside one of my favourite towns in the whole of Italy, Montefiascone. This is a beautiful town perched on high with views of lake Bolsena below and occupies a fabulous position, look to the east to find Umbria and to the north is Tuscany, literally only a few clicks from both. Wonderful area. Despite the fact I have had 4 speeding tickets from the Montefiascione police, I still love it there.
So onto the review, obviously I can't place this in any order, it being the first Merlot down the hatch so you'll just have to take it for what it is. The 2001 vintage was pretty good, there has been better before and since but its a good example of the wine so, here we go.
Falesco Montiano 2001 - BUY - €26
Penetrating and intense ruby red. The nose quickly gives up heavenly aromas, we have loads of plum here with touches of chocolate and coffee and well as dark berries, the nose profile continues onto the palate, the wine is wonderfully fruity and has a nice mouth feel, great tannins and a smooth and satisfying finish. Classy. 92 Points
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Drogheria Pedrelli - €26
Americans - The wine to buy - $39
Brits - Imbibros - £22.50
No Questions on the Merlot Flight Entries but feel free to comment you little terrors!

Gaja Darmagi 2001

Gaja Darmagi 2001


Gaja Darmagi 2001 is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine from the Piedmont. Gaja Darmagi is considered to be one of the most exciting Cabernets in Italy's top vintages and I'm writing a quick blog entry to announce that we're now carrying this wine and for those Gaja fans out there who haven't tried the 2001, the wine is very expressive of the terroir and carries a real essence of Barbaresco with it.
Stephen Tanzer rated the 2001 as a 93 point wine, we go a point under that, it's a luscious wine but not as complex as some Gaja wines. Coming in at €138 and at 92 points it's clearly not a value wine, but Gaja rarely is. Gaja wines are for a special occasion, an experience to remember and for anniversaries and fancy parties!
A better value wine and a better wine period from Gaja is the Barberesco of the same vintage, still expensive at €114. However, if you are Cabernet Sauvignon fan, like I know many of you are, then the Darmagi will give you a real treat, traditional Cab nose and flavours, cassis, bell peppers and some spicy dark fruit, the colour is as dark as any Cabernet I've seen recently, pretty close to black, inky and full bodied.
If you would like to try some Italian Cabernet Sauvignons but are not willing or able to spend €130 on a bottle of wine then a 100% Italian Cab worth a quick look would be a Santa Anastasia Litra 2004 coming out of Sicily these are great value wines (€30). Review below.
Santa Anastasia Litra Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 - BUY - €30
Nice dark ruby red looking thick and full bodied in the glass. Takes a bit of wristy swirling to open up, be patient, a wonderful nose of spices, sugar, plums and dark fruits. A little herbaceous and hot too. Fat and bold on the mouth feel, a little oaky at the end but a very pleasant tasting experience, not too much fruit on the palate, needs a few more years. 2012 and on is my guess. 91 Points
You can buy the Darmagi at The Cellar Door but I'm going to recommend the Santa Anastasia as a better value buy, like I said, the Gaja is a one off celebration wine, the Litra is more an everyday drinking wine or a Sunday special.
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - La Cantina di Cicerone - €30
Americans - Not imported to your shores. Sorry folks.
Brits - La Cantina di Cicerone - €30
Question of the Day?
What is the most money you have ever spent on a wine? Was it worth it?

Monday, June 16, 2008

Lagrein

Lagrein

Lagrein, yes, Lagrein, it's Italian wine, Lagrein, look it up. Coming from the Alto Adige region of Italy we have a wine that is black as night and can be serious, deadly serious. It's a tiny little region where old Lagrein is produced, shockingly this is from up close to the Austrian border, close to Bolzano hence the Germanic name... Lagrein.

The production comes from around 750 acres of this small piece of Italian terroir, the best can be dark fruit city and bold, the worst, like I just tried 30 minutes ago, can be vegetal and not in a good way. I'm not here to bash Lagrein chums, I'm a big fan normally but today, dodging the fat Venetian rain and thirsting for something a little different I thought I'd try Pam's selection of reds.

Seemingly, I may never learn my lesson with my local supermarket, every week I scour the top shelves (for wine.... filthy minds) hoping to see a little gem leap out and in a squeaky whiny voice say "pick me, I'm your friend" and once more I was conned by a pretty label. Well, winemakers at Villa Von Steiner, if that is your real name, you have inspired me to write about Lagrein which is a good thing, but I'm afraid you're going to take a small and inconsequential bashing.

So, who produces good Lagrein? There's 3 or 4 producers that come to mind where you can experience Lagrein for what its known for, heavenly colour, a minerally, black fruit nose and smooth mouthfeel. Cantina di Terlano are practically dead certs year in and year out their Lagrein Porphyr Reds are very good but pricey at around €30. I have a back tasting note on their 2001 for you later on. If you are not rolling in gold but would like to try a good Lagrein then a solid smaller priced producer would be Alois Lageder for roughly half that price. You really want to know what I thought of my Pam wine dontcha? Ok, I was being a little harsh but I like to draw you in, let's do it.

Villa von Steiner Lagrein 2004 - PASS - €9
Fantastic penetrating dark purple, all the way thru, what hues? ink black vino. The nose just stinks, wet rocks mixed with onions, soil, even horse manure, I mean this nose is seriously unpleasant and here is where the wine can play mind games with you. The immediate mouth feel is gorgeous, black fruits and such a soft silky mouth feel, you begin to forgive the manure, and then it comes back in the mid palate and you lose all fruit, it turns acidic and very plain and uninteresting and then it gives you a really long finish of this foulness, and you think, "what the hell happened". A confusing wine, but for that I have to give it some kudos for being so interesting. 82 Points

Hey, I've paid more than €9 to be confused before but I wont recommend this to you guys. You don't take this wine to a party, you don't sit and eat a selection of fine cheeses with it, you could stir it into your spag bol and actually even to accompany spag bol it would be fine. So onto happier times and a past tasting note of a Cantina di Terlano Lagrein.

Cantina di Terlano Lagrein Porphyr Red Riserva 2001 - BUY - €50
Dark, deep and brooding purple in the glass. A lovely nose of plums, dark fruits and an obvious mineral quality. A good full bodied effort, smooth on the mouthfeel, well structured, perfect tannins, deep and capable of aging. A little bit of oak on the end, but a great effort. What we have here is textbook Lagrein. 91 Points

Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Drogheria Pedrelli - €25
Americans - Vinfolio - $39
Brits - Wines of the World - £27

Question of the Day
I already asked you one and I see no comments to it! So you're not getting another. *turns back*



So, in other news, I should be hooking up with a few Italian Food blogs over the next couple of weeks so we can combine my, obvious, talents in the world of wine and get some food matching done. After all, wine is, at its very best, an accompaniment to food and I've been forgetting that and thanks to the readers who like to remind me. If you have an Italian blog and would like to work together to help spread the Italian love then email me at wine90@gmail.com

Italian Merlot

Italian Merlot

Italian Merlot month begins right here, right now. Italian Merlot is a hugely vast and exciting world with some excellent Merlots coming out of the Friuli and Tuscan regions. There are a handful of world famous Italian Merlots that I'm going to be trying this month, as well as some more obscure and culty wines. I went right to the top to get the finest recommendations for you guys with no less than Antonio Galloni, the Italian reviewer for Robert Parker, giving me a few choice recommendations.

So which Merlots am I going to bring out for Merlot month? I've had over 45 suggestions which gives you a good idea of the quality of Italian Merlot, none of these were blends all pure Merlot. From these suggestions I have whittled it down to 10 bottles that I hope represent a good cross section of Italian Merlots through the price points. Ok, yes, perhaps the tiny production Roberto Voerzio merlot was a touch self indulgent but this was a Galloni recommendation, I can hardly disagree with the good man now can I? For fun, and also because this seems to be how I'm rolling these days, I'm going to stick a Pomerol into the mix and pray it doesn't come out top! :o)


Firstly, I'll be taking "Messorio" from Le Macchiole and "Redigaffi" by Tua Rita for a spin. These are among Italy's most famous wines period and swap "best Merlot in Italy" yearly according to Parker ratings anyway. These are my top end Italian Merlots.

Secondly, I'm going to take a look at Merlot produced outside of the traditional quality zones, so outside of Friuli and Tuscany adding Roberto Voerzio's Merlot from the Piedmont, Feudi di San Gregorio's "Patrimio" from Campania and, another famous name, "Montiano" by Falesco from Lazio.

Lastly, I'm going to see if I can find some bargains with Antonio's recommendations, the Radikon "Merlot", Vie di Romans "Voos Dai Ciamps" as well as some other kind recommendations, the Villa Russiz "Merlot Graf de La Tour", Avignonesi, "Desiderio" and finally, Livon's "Tiare Mate". I am very excited about the Vie di Romans wine, not particularly expensive for a 93 point score from Galloni.

So these are the wines I'll be trying and I'm really delighted at all the suggestions I've received and even the negative criticism that I should lay off the international varietals and concentrate on Italy's home team grapes. Well, I am interested in all wines produced within Italy so will continue to cast the net wide. I think it is interesting to compare Italy's success within international varietals compared to other countries, I want to be part of the big push on Italian wine and yes, I am playing fast and loose with the word "interesting"! :op

Question of the Day
Have you tried any of these wines, what did you think?

Friday, June 13, 2008

Michele Chiarlo

Michele Chiarlo


Michele Chiarlo, founded in 1956 by Michele and Giuseppina Chiarlo produce some of the most interesting Barolo (Brunate, Cannubi, Cerequio, Tortoniano) in the Piedmont. Michele Chiarlo vineyards are located amongst the finest terroir the region has to offer. One of the larger producers in the Piedmont, and one of the few in the area to experiment with blended wines, Michele Chiarlo commands a lot of respect for his innovative style. Perhaps not in the first flight of famous Barolo producers, his Barolos are reasonably priced around the €40 mark, yet his wide ranging selections of wines are all first class and a visit to the estate is worth a look for a great overview of the Piedmont. It's fair to say that thru the vintages Chiarlo wines can fluctuate quite wildly, some years producing stunning wines and others a disappointment, so it's really important to know which vintages are the best for which wines. This "hit and miss" production does keep the wines at a reasonable price, so if you're in the know, you can pick up a real bargain.

Michele Chiarlo wines, most importantly represent great value, for those into ratings, his Barolos have scored as high as 95/100 with WineSpectator magazine and have won value awards with the British magazine, Decanter. For those looking to get into quality Nebbiolo at a fair price Michele Chiarlo would be the first producer from my lips. So, which wines does Michele Chiarlo produce? *takes deep breath*
6 different Barolos (Cerequio, Brunate, Cannubi, Triumviratum, Tortoniano and Tortoniano Riserva)

2 Barbarescos (Asili and Reyna)

3 Barberas (La Court, Cipressi Della Court and Le Orme)

3 Gavis (Gavi, Fornaci and Rovereto)

3 Moscatos (Smentiò, Rocca Uccellette, Nivole)

1 Dolcetto

1 Grignolino

1 Roero Arneis

5 Blended wines (Montemareto Countacc, Airone, Le Monache Rosso & Bianco and a Chard Plenilunio)

In case that wasn't enough the company also make a fine range of grappas.

I have tasted a lot of Michele Chiarlo wine, Chiarlo is one of the first producers we stocked and so naturally I took the time to read up on his wines and taste as many of them as I could with several of the above stuck in my cellar in Venice. I have not tried any of the blends and am fascinated about the possibility of trying an "Airone" (consider Airone is the name of Italy's low cost carrier, think Ryanair - bad joke? nah)

So no person is actually going to try all those wines but for a starter on the Piedmont I would highly recommend going for the Barolo Cerequio and Cannubi, one of the Barberescos, Barberas, Dolcetto and Grignolino. This will give you a really nice entry into the wines of the Piedmont as you are sampling the grapes that make up the majority of the wine grown in the region. Look out for the whites and reds of the 2007 vintage, a really well balanced year that Chiarlo are bigging up already.
Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi 2003 - BUY - €42
A feminine and delicate Barolo, a mid depth ruby red with some amber tones already, pleasing nose, quickly giving up balsamic vinegar, leather, licorice and cherries. Good texture but quite acidic on the palate but not displeasing, silky smooth finish. Looks like a wine to drink young. 90 Points.
Michele Chiarlo Dolcetto d'Alba 2006 - BUY - €10
Pretty nose of vanilla and cherries. Medium-full bodied with polished tannins and a smooth distinctive finish. 85 Points
Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco 2001 - PASS - €40
Ruby red with brown hues. An interesting bouquet, a little gamey and a little vegetal with some earthy tobacco notes. On the palate the wine is mid bodied and quite tannic but in a mouth enveloping way, silky and filling, not the longest finish but good pleasing flavours, cherries and leather, quite complex and structured and a little coffee on the mid-palate too. Not enough on the finish or the nose to recommend this wine, from this vintage you can get better. 89 Points
So, lets go for the Cannubi from the HOT HOT 2003 vintage.
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Alla Corto di Bacco - €42
Americans - Liquor Outlet Wine Cellars - $71
Brits - Alla Corto di Bacco - €42
Question of the Day?
Which wine makes you smile!? and why?

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Pied a Terre London

Pied a Terre London

The Pied a Terre restaurant in London is a 2 Michelin star super stylish restaurant on London's Charlotte Street. Pied a Terre is the proud home of rising star chef Shane Osborn and appealed to me not just because of the excellent food on offer but the mammoth collection of fine wines for sale, Burgs, Bordeaux and some good new world vino. Stingy as I am, I decided against paying restaurant prices for fine wine and instead went with the tasting menu, a 10 course gastronomic fantasy where each meal came with a wine selected to suit.

Unfortunately, by the time myself and my date got to Pied a Terre we were already pretty well sloshed but not so sloshed as to forget the best wine of the night. Was it Italian? Well, er, no. So probably French then, for London's most famous French restaurant right? Errr. At least Red then? No no, the wine of the evening was a New World, New Zealand Riesling upon which we both agreed had to be sourced immediately. As much as a wino as I am, even I couldn't bring myself to make tasting notes on a date but I did mentally score a 91 for y'all (the wine, not the date).

The 10 courses of the degustation menu were worth the price tag and rather than write out the whole menu here, those interested can click here. This restaurant is by far the best French restaurant I've been to, I love to pick at food and drink and can think of nothing worse than a plate loaded with the same taste, so if you like variety and French cuisine you'll love it here. The menu was a little shy on red wine but for the courses on offer the correct choices were made. The staff are very knowledgeable and friendly, there is no dress code and scruffs are embraced. If you eat out but once a year; Pied a Terre is the place to go.

All very well and good Newton but where have you been? Well, I've been sick, may I add not due to Pied a Terre but due to EasyJet and their ridiculous 22 hour delay to my 2 hour flight back to Venice from London. So today is my first post all week and I want to say thank you for the TWENTY (that a 2 and a 0) emails I've received telling me about all the fantastic Merlot on offer. So Merlot week becomes Merlot month as I explore the delights of a very tricky little grape to bring to perfection all by its lonesome. Next post will be about Merlot month and today I break with tradition, the best wine I've drunk all week was from New Zealand, and in fact, I haven't had any Italian wine while I've been sick so.... variety is the spice of life right? A new world white... what the hell.

Where can I buy this wine? - QPR ALERT! (Felton Road Riesling, New Zealand!)
Europeans - Farr Vintners - €13
Americans - Wine Commune - $19
Brits - Farr Vintners - £9

Question of the Day
What is your favourite New World wine?

Friday, June 6, 2008

Tua Rita

Tua Rita

Tua Rita, named after Rita Tua who bought the vineyards in 1984 with partner Virgilio Bisti, have managed to do spectacular things to the Italian wine landscape in a remarkably short space of time. The world famous, always Tre Bicchiere, and 100 Parker point awarded Redigaffi (100% Merlot) is something of an institution here in Italy held in huge esteem and traded for the GDPs of old soviet satellites. The vineyards themselves are spooky neat and efficient and the whole operation is simply operatic perfection in wine making.

Tua Rita occupies some of the best grape growing land in Suvereto, close to the coast where all the great Super Tuscan vineyards are located in Bolgheri (that's Tuscany, but you know that by now surely right? No? Tuscany Guide). This is a real small yield vineyard and top notch winemaker Stefano Chioccioli is overseeing and running the show in the fields for Tua Rita. So you got the land, and the know how in place, but Tua Rita have made critical decisions about which grapes to go with and in the space of 20 years have created wines that many Bordeaux producers, with 100's of years experience can't even touch.

Tua Ritas production isn't exactly huge, this isn't an Antinori kind of production, the wines have a cult status and are trading for €500+ in the Italian enotecas (and its not like many Italian enotecas are stocking the 100 point 2000 Redigaffi) if you are smart, you can pick them up much cheaper on Italian Ebay.

What wines do Tua Rita produce?

Redigaffi - Signature wine of Tua Rita. 100% Merlot, the best Merlot in Italy and a 100 Parker point bomb. 1997, 1999, 2000 and 2004 are generally considered to be the best vintages of this bottling, find one of these under €200 and you're doing well. Traditionally, this is a really rich, opulent Merlot, big tannins with big terroir driven aromas. The 2004 vintage is really a little under priced in places, something of a bargain/investment, I sourced it at €150 click here.

Giusto di Notri - The top Bordeaux-esque blend of Tua Rita. Merlot 25%, Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Cabernet Franc 15%, 5% Petit Verdot. The wine achieved huge accolades across the board for three vintages in a row from 1999-2001. Traditionally this wine is very dark with licorice and graphite notes, very rich and fruity wine. Any readers from the Chicago area can pick this up for under $70 from Flickinger Wines (probably they deliver further than Chicago, check it out)

Perlato Del Bosco Rosso - A price accessible Tuscan blend. Sangiovese 65%, Cabernet Sauvignon 35%. This wine is improving year on year, with the last two vintage releases ('04 and '05) becoming serious QPR wines (can pick these up for €20). If you want to try something from Tua Rita but don't want to lay out the big money, this wine is a good option. Fruity and balanced this is a very approachable wine, perhaps drinking best young. The 2006 vintage is reportedly excellent too.

There are a further two white wines that I personally have no experience of so couldn't possibly comment (but you could, leave a comment!) the Perlato Del Bosco Bianco (Trebbiano 60%, Ansonica 20%, Clairette 20%) and the Lodano (50% Traminer Riesling and 50% Chardonnay).

Now, why am I talking about Tua Rita? It's a little left field right? Well, RIGHT. After "Nero Week" (which should be rechristened "Nero Fortnight"), I'm going to start exploring the rich and confusing world of Italian Merlot. So, Italian Merlot, Tua Rita, Redigaffi, see what I did? I will be splurging on an a bottle of the latest Redigaffi and choosing 5 other Merlots from around Italy to showcase for my kick into Italian Merlot and once more, I need assistance.

I may even make my way down to Tua Rita next weekend, if they allow me thru the doors, and if so, I'll bring back a full report and hopefully a lot of tasting notes. Ciao for Now.

Question of the Day
Recommend some Italian Merlots, besides the Redigaffi, for what will probably become "Merlot Month" on the blog as there are a ridiculous amount on the market. Please.. pretty please.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Italian Wine UK

Italian Wine UK


Italian Wine UK - Italian wine, after a dramatic fall in the past decade, is once again picking up steam in the UK. Last year saw a 20% increase in the number of imports to the UK as the Brits find those old Chilean and Argentinian wines are shooting up in price. This is great news for our business, while we are based in Italy, the majority of our sales are to the UK Market, followed closely by Italy then Scandinavia.

The UK Market is buying Tuscan wines by the bucket load, probably thanks to some fantastic Brunello scores and improved marketing campaigns by the leaders in Chianti Classico. The recent scandals in Italian wine may have worked only to remind the British wine drinking public of Italian wines. Of course, these figures are coming off the back of the 2004 and 2005 vintages, a stunning double vintage in Tuscany with our Sassicaia allocations exhausting days after upload.

However, I have to make another very public plea to the blog readers and Cellar Door customers, please, experiment! There are so many quality wines being produced throughout Italy and these Tuscan wines, while some are very good, they are not exactly QPR. Life is about variety and in my humble opinion, these Brunello fruit bombs getting top marks from Wine Spectator are not always indicative of Italy's unique terroir. We have the wines split into regions for a very good reason, each region is bringing different soil, grapes, weather and I press you all to try wines from the length and breadth of Italy.

If you like Australian Syrah, go get some cheap Nero d'Avola from Sicily, very similar flavour profile and a fifth of the price. If you like Bordeaux wines, try some of the glut of blended wines coming out of Italy, the Super Tuscans (or even Super Umbrians or Super Lazioans - I made that up, but blended Umbrian/Lazio wines are becoming huge) and for white fans, get some Gava, try some Italian Chardonnay, Falanghina, Soave, Processco is a highly underrated Fizz. Wine is fun and there is more to Italy than Tuscany *points at the Piedmont with both fingers*
***OK Lecture over. :o)

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut is a Pinot Nero grape sparkling white from Bruno Giacosa. The grapes are actually bought in for this effort from Oltrepo Pavese but the Giacosa experience and vinification processes give added quality. I'm tasting this as part of "Nero Week", not an actual term but a personal made up one for my own little exploration of Italian Pinot Nero and so far, I am blown away by the quality of Italian Pinot Nero in all their guises.
Yesterday the Nero del Tondo 1990 got a 93 point score and today with the Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut I am handing out another 90 pointer (ok, just 90 points exactly!). If you're reading this from the Parker boards, thanks to Mark Fornatale, Darius Namdjou and Riccardo Campinoti for your suggestions for other Italian Pinot Neros which I am going to list at the bottom of the blog and try and source to give a taste.
Bruno Giacosa Spumante Extra Brut 2006- BUY - €18.50
Usual light straw colour in the glass, medium sparkling action, bubbly but not insane. Great on the nose, yeast and toast qualities with some nice floral and fruity notes, apples and lemons. Nice, rounded and large mouth feel for a sparkling wine with quite a sweet lemon like mid palate and a vibrant, nice length finish. Great balance, refreshing and good acidity. This Giacosa can be kept up to around 10 years. 90 Points
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Piero Constantini - €18.50
Americans - Vinopolis - $23
Brits - John Armit - £15.60
Pinot Nero Recommendations
Gottardi Mazzon Pinot Nero
La Pineta by Podere Monastero
Stroblhof Blauburgunder
Question of the Day
Your favourite kind of sparkling wine?

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Ruffino Nero del Tondo

Ruffino Nero del Tondo

Ruffino Nero del Tondo 1990, think about that for a minute, Ruffino Nero del Tondo 1990, in front of me I have an 18 year old bottle of wine. As Twin Peaks began its run, Italy won the World Cup, Russia becomes a Republic, Navratilova puffs her way to her last Wimbledon title, the first Gulf War begins, Germany unifies and the New Kids are Hangin Tough, somewhere in a corner of Tuscany, Ruffino are handling a 5 star vintage, Pinot Noir. Pinot Nero as we should say! 18 years on and you expect changes right? Especially in a wine. Ok, so Italy are still World Cup Champions, and oh yes, ok, Gulf War II (this time it's personal) and I wouldn't put down too many bills against Martina winning Wimbledon if she tried BUT things do change and evolve and this wine has changed, evolved and aged beautiful. It is a prom queen, it is the ugly duckling finally realising its potential, 18 years on the Ruffino Nero del Tondo is a stunner!


I really should have cleaned that cabinet table but there you have it, in all its glory. Today I got a package from another wine company containing all the Pinot's I'd promised to review and this wine looked a mess. The bottle was dirty, the cork was stained and I was beginning to think it was an expensive mistake but as probably one of the better Pinot's in central Italy I had to try it and I'm thrilled with it. I've awarded this wine 93 points, which is way higher than the critics I've read who have bothered to touch an Italian Pinot Nero but who cares, I can tell you now, if you want a wine that has many levels, if you enjoy complexity in a wine and want to try something different out of Italy and have that benefit of age but without the price tag then this is a really interesting wine. Do I want to drink it while watching a movie, no, but the wine is a discussion point and so sweet actually could be served as a dessert wine, in fact, this is wine for Tiramasu, certainly, it even tastes a bit like the goop you get at the bottom of a Tiramisu container. I say container because no one has ever made for me a home made Tiramasu, I am badly treated.

So what is next this week? I've been in contact with Big Yellow Storage about their new facility in Fulham so write that up for you. See the photo and take a note on how NOT to store your wines, mix up the Mr Muscle with the Merlot and it's a trip to the ospedale for you.
This weekend I go to London and will be trying a wine flight at the 2 michelin star, 600 vino carrying, fancy pants restaurant, Pied a Terre which I am properly excited about. 10 wines, roughly half and half red/white from California, Italy, France, South Africa and Greece so a chance to broaden my palate with a little Gewurztraminer and Sherry. This restaurant really does look amazing and is on the same street, get this, the same street as my halls of residence where I used to go to University in London!
Ruffino Nero del Tondo 1990 - BUY - €40
Clear and intense garnet red/orange in the glass, orange hues. Super sweet nectar nose, a little honeyed and floral, a little medicinal but the overriding nature is just sweet, sweet, licquor like red fruit esp strawberries, a touch of coffee in there too, really intense, aromas pouring out of the bottle from the instant I opened it. On the palate the wine is very complex, hardly any tannins, almost like a grape juice feel because there seems to be no alcohol, smooth as you're going to see, medium bodied and complete. I was worried this was too old but I think I got it at the height of its curve. No precendant for such a high score for a Ruffino Pinot but im going 93 points. Fruity medicinal, little cough syrup on the finish. Its got that Italian acidity that you might not have expected from a Pinot Noir - 93 Points
Where can I buy this wine?
Europeans - Piero Constantini - €40
Americans - Um, nowhere!
Brits - Fine and Rare - £31.50
Not a bad price for Brits, usually we get scr&wed for Italian imports, nice job Fine and Rare.
Question of the Day?
What was 1990 like for you?


And no comments about which idiot would keep fine wines in a cleaning cupboard, cos, like, that idiot is a good er, friend of mine and I just wouldn't want to hurt her feelings.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Antinori Achelo

Antinori Achelo

Antinori Achelo is the name of the blog post but Antinori Achelo is not act-chew-ally the name of the wine, for it's produced on the La Braccesca estate and doesn't even mention Antinori on the bottle. Originally I found this strange, Antinori has a stella name in the Italian wine biz so why are they playing coy? Cos it's muck, that's why! The wine comes from around Cortona, another station I whizzed past today on my way back to Venezia and I thought to myself, "you have that Achelo at home Newton, lets get it drunk". Another case of high hopes dashed. It says Syrah on the bottle, looks like Syrah in the glass but tastes and smells like garbage. I'm a fan of stinky wines, different wines, this is 1 dimensional and dull.

This wine smelt so bad, I even began to doubt the cleanliness of my glassware and poured a second glass. Could be the vintage, 2006, maybe wasn't working out for Syrah grapes in central Italy. If you fancy an Italian Syrah from Tuscany then go for Isole e Olena Syrah at €35, these are consistantly good thru the vintages and is the best Tuscan Syrah, in Sicily the Planeta Syrah is wonderful at around €20. Best budget price Syrah I would give to Falesco at around €7 (or the Merlot/Syrah Tellus). All these wines are QPR wines, you wont be disappointed. Italy, apart from a handful of examples hasn't really brought the news with Syrah, and until it does, you cant beat an Aussie Shiraz or CDP/Cote du Rhone.

Sorry it's a short one today folks, below is the review for the Achelo, I can't recommend it (though I do sell it!) but I do recommend the Planeta, which we also sell, linked up here.

Antinori Achelo Syrah 2006 - PASS - €10
Dark purple in the glass, nice intensity, nose is a little tight, vegetal, no fruit, viney, leathery but funky, off almost, 3 day old socks on the nose. Mid bodied, more acidic than expected, non interesting tannins, fairly smooth, drinks easily with a nice 20 second finish but one dimensional and bland not a good effort at all and not what I expect fom a Syrah or an Antinori wine. Maybe the 2006 vintage is bad example. 82 Points

Question of the Day
Your favourite Syrah please?

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Montefalco Umbria

Montefalco Umbria

After my visit to the Arnaldo Caprai vineyards I took a quick ride into Montefalco itself, a medieval Umbrian hilltop town that gave the D.O.C.G wine its name (Sagrantino di Montefalco).
Montefalco itself is located between Foligno and Trevi in the central Umbria area. Montefalco is all about wine, the town itself is full of enotecas and wine specialising restaurants. Walking through the main streets and the central square you really get a feeling for what wine means to this area. Producing wine since pre roman times, this little visited Umbrian hilltop town is a real treasure find. The entire area around Montefalco is part of the Sagrantino wine trail called Strada del Sagrantino. A pleasure for all the senses I can think of no better holiday for an Italian wine geek, check out the link to see all the area has to offer. 29 Vineyards available to tour.

What I was not expecting in Montefalco was the best wine bar I've come across in Umbria "Enoteca Federico II" named after the guy who sacked the city in the 13th century. This enoteca/restaurant sits in Montefalcos central square and offers Italy's most famous wines, as well as a good selection of local wines by the glass from a self service machine! I could not believe my eyes, you could simply take your glass, stick in your card and purchase a glass of Sassicaia 2001 for €7,00 or a Tignanello, a Pian della Vigne, Guado al Tasso, they were all there. This is a great place for someone who wants to try all the very best Italian wine has to offer without breaking the piggy bank. If you bought a bottle of the 8 on display in the photo you are looking at a €1000 outlay, to try a sample of magic machine works out around €55. Of course, you are not getting a full glass, but enough to experience the wines taste, colour and aroma.

Montefalco Umbria is all about the wine but also has some awe inspiring churches and architecture. If you are the type to take a wine holiday and want culture and scenery thrown into the mix then this area has to be a serious contender and, always a plus point, no one knows about it.
The area is also superb for cyclists and foodies with 10 Gambero Rosso award winning restaurants in the local area. Check out especially Villa Zuccari, Redibis and Centro Acquarossa.
Montefalco is far less crowded and easily more pleasant that your other wine hilltop towns, Montepulciano etc etc, in the area, go check it out.