Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc is the finest wine from the Scavino vineyards seemingly year on year, but the 2004 vintage is a masterclass in balance. It appears as though the true potential of Bric del Fiasc has now been realised, a project of over 30 years, and I'm looking forward to seeing if the Scavinos can raise the Barolo bar once more - vintage permitting.
Paolo Scavino has long been a favourite producer for Piedmont fans in the know, not simply for this top cru Barolo but for all his Barolo wines including the award winning Rocche dell'Annunziata. Scavino is currently producing 14 different wines that beautifully showcase the Piedmont with Langhe, Barbera, Dolcetto as well as making use of Cabernet Sauvignon in a couple of Nebbiolo dominated blends.
The Bric del Fiasc doesn't get close in price to the Barolo superstar prices of Gaja, Giacosa, Voerzio et al. As these wines are highly sought after and praised in Italy they sometimes struggle to reach our shores and those that do are snapped up quickly. The Bric del Fiasc 2004 had Antonio Galloni of the Wine Advocate in raptures. The producers top wine in a heralded vintage is still, in relative terms, a QPR hotshot. What other 96 point WA 2004 Barolo can still be found for under €60 a bottle?
So why is this wine so special? This cru Barolo wine was first produced in 1978 when Paolo's son Enrico convinced him that the grapes from this particular area should be vinified separately as they are the best of the bunch and the wine should be sold under its own cru label. Since then the wine has grown in stature. Currently a supporter of French Oak it will be interesting if the amount of oak and period in barrel remains constant for future vintages. However, it was, as always, the combination of grape, vinification and vintage that brought the 2004 vintage to new heights; this combination is also likely to produce a terrific result with age though that remains to be seen as I killed this bottle already.
Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2004 - BUY - €58
Wound tighter than a Woods backswing this wine had to be left 12 hours before coming out to play. A lovely deep and bold red to the rim with no signs of age to speak of, on the nose the wine offered up measured notes of blackberry, chocolate, blueberries, cedarwood and, for my nose at least, that classic touch of marzipan. Smooth on the palate a great balance of tannins and acidity already, fruit forward with blueberries coming forth on the 45 second finish. A wonderful wine regardless of the price. 95 Points
Unfortunately I don't have a time machine, I would love to see how this vintage performs 10 years from now.